I'm going back to the Philippines...

...where a yaya is waiting!

While I sort out the ticket situation, I'm thinking about how best to spend the two weeks we have carved out for this trip.

So far, we have lined up a day trip to Corregidor, a weekend in El Paradiso, and a must-have visit to Los Banos. If you were going, what else would you see and do?

Here's one take on a balikbayan guide.

Stumbled upon

An ad from the U.P. Alumni Association. What do you think?



So the ad is about a "wiser electorate" but what about the wisdom of the politicians themselves? How can one chose wisely during an election when there is hardly any wise choices to be made?

I like fish too...

...but this is too much.

Rest in peace, Francis M.

The man was responsible for my introduction to rap, Filipino-style, with "Mga Kababayan." And for music class in high school, I sang "Cold Summer Nights" for a passing grade. One thing he always was was proudly Filipino.


So long, Man from Manila.

Of Tony, Augusto, and Filipino pride

I was enjoying a high of Filipino pride in the wake of the Philippine episode of "No Reservations" when I read this. It seems the guy Anthony Bourdain himself credited for getting him sufficiently psyched to visit the Philippines was catching flack for, of all things, not being Filipino enough.

Some background: Viewers of "No Reservations" on the Travel Channel have seen Anthony Bourdain traipse across Asia in all sorts of exotic culinary adventures. But much to the dismay of many Filipino and Filipino-American fans, he kept skipping our 7,100+ islands. Then came a contest that solicited advice, nay, enthusiastically worded and videotaped suggestions, from viewers on where Tony should head next. Enter Augusto, a young Fil-Am whose video caught Tony's eye. With his "Philippines"-emblazoned hoody and a photo of a full roasted pig, Augusto somehow gave Tony the push he needed to finally embark on a Filipino food adventure.

Tony ate sisig and taho, slurped goat bile soup, got a little education on the origins of Filipino food, and drank lots of San Miguel beer. But he also went on a journey of discovery of sorts, with Augusto, who was trying to reconnect with his Filipino roots in Cebu. A New Yorker more than a Cebuano, Augusto was, in a way, just as wide-eyed (or even more so, Bourdain being the world traveler that he is) as Tony as he coaxed the bone marrow in bulalo, or crunched on crispy lechon skin.

The criticism of Augusto seems to stem from the fact that he had only been to the Philippines one other time before coming with the Travel Channel crew. He was no expert, on the Philippines nor its food, by any stretch of the imagination. Hell, he couldn't even speak Filipino.

Thing is, he didn't need to. Anyone who's seen the episode can see that Augusto was not there to guide Tony. They had other experts (local tour guides, chefs, bloggers, etc.) for that. Augusto was there to be Tony's companion, and perhaps to illustrate the crazy, confusing amalgamation that is the Philippines, its people and its food--constantly changing, struggling to be defined, yearning to be rediscovered.

Another thing: This is not new territory for the show. In one episode, Tony goes with a Korean-American on a trip to the countryside to visit her grandfather. She too was reconnecting with her roots, dining with relatives she hardly sees and perhaps barely knows. While she seemed more knowledgeable about Korean cuisine than Augusto was of Filipino food, the storyline was essentially the same. It was a journey into a new country for Tony, made more poignant perhaps when experienced with another American finding a connection to her heritage.

Whatever the motivation, whatever Tony's reason was for picking Augusto, I think the episode was successful in giving its largely North American audience a taste of what the Philippines has to offer to travelers. We've gone unnoticed for too long, relegated to the second, if not third, tier list of people's places to visit. Seeing the show, I was reminded of the country's complexity, the noise and clamor of its city streets, against the relative quiet of what I still consider my tree-lined streets in Los Banos. It's enough to keep me going back, knowing that with every visit, there will always be something new to see and do in my old town.

As for Augusto, I say kudos to him and other Filipinos like him who desire a connection with the country of their roots. So many of us have left the Philippines, and many more will follow in our footsteps. But to those to refuse to forget, who live their new lives in new countries as Filipinos still, I say thank you. And spread the word.

In the meantime, enjoy bits of the show here:

Chicken soup for the soul, Filipino style

During a recent trip to Las Vegas, I had occasion to calm my stomach (after a night of drinking) with a bowl of arroz caldo at the local Chowking. While their version was by no means special, even a little greasy to be honest, it had all the ingredients I needed to set me right again--a winning combination of comfort food, with a dose of nostaligia.

I love arroz caldo. Again, like champorado, it takes me back. Back to the Laguna of my youth. Back to Saturday trips to the wet market in Calamba, where my mom would drop us kids off at the arroz caldo counter so we can eat while she shops. Back to my grandma's house in Cabuyao, and the many afternoons when my siblings, cousin and I would have arroz caldo as our after school snack. It also takes me back to college, when my building-mates and I trekked to a new Goto King that opened at midnight, offering free food for the first few diners. We dug into our warm bowls of rice porridge alongside construction workers and tricycle drivers.

It is our version of the cure-all chicken noodle soup. Only heartier from the rice, spicier from the black pepper, and saltier from the fish sauce.

From Wikipedia:

Some provinces prefer the Spanish-influenced arroz caldo (literally hot rice), which is often mistaken for a European dish due to its name. Arroz caldo is actually a Chinese congee that was adapted to the tastes of the Spanish colonial settlers who patronized Chinese restaurants in the Philippines. As the Spanish could not pronounce Chinese, they gave it a Spanish name for easy reference.

A few weeks ago, Bayds, an old college friend (now a doctor in Florida), texted me about her misadventure in attempting to make her first pot of arroz caldo. Hers ended up looking like gooey fried rice. But it gave me the idea of attempting my own creation.

The recipe is easy enough that I wonder now why I never tried this before. Start with some garlic, onion and the all important ginger. Throw in some rice, some chicken broth and pieces of cooked chicken. Cook till rice is done and you have arroz caldo.

I cheated a little by using store bought chicken broth.

Threw in some hard-boiled eggs to make it a heartier meal.

The usual condiments include ground black pepper, fish sauce (not shown) and kalamansi (or in my case, lime). Add to suit your taste.

It wasn't that hard at all. One mistake though, I made too much and ended up eating arroz caldo for lunch three days in a row. It's safe to say that I've had my fill of the stuff for now.

There's hope for you yet, Bayds!

I loosely followed the instructions of Connie of Pinoy Cook, substituting regular eggs and omitting the kasubha. Her full recipe is here.

Dreaming of a Manila Christmas

I'm dreaming of a Christmas spent in the Philippines. The last Christmas I spent *home* was in 1997. Going back now, I know that the experience won't be quite the same. Most of my family is here, scattered all over the US and Canada. Same with friends. But I'm looking forward to a new kind of Philippine Christmas, spent with the hubby, and maybe (just maybe) kids later (much, much later) on.

Christmas time is the prime season for balikbayans visiting the Philippines. For most of us who have not been there in a while, we yearn for the old, while searching for the new.

For me, the old means hanging out in Los Banos, visiting my lolo's grave in Loyola, driving along Katipunan perhaps, breakfast at Pancake House, a weekend in El Paradiso (the private beach of family friends), and so on.

The new, well, I would need help with that. Cecile of Chuvaness suggests, among other things, checking out the Salcedo Market on Saturdays, a meal at Antonio's Garden in Tagaytay, and shopping at a Team Manila lifestyle store. See her full Balikbayan Guide here.

What are your Manila/Philippines musts?

Manny! Manny!

I didn't watch the fight, as I was at dinner with some new friends who are moving to Monterey soon. But I had V checking his Blackberry for updates.

A solid win for Manny Pacquaio. Someone Filipinos every where can be proud of. (And easy money for my dad. Haha!)

HBO recaps the Pacman's amazing journey here.



I thought this was funny too, as an extra bonus: “Zero crime rate in NCR during the Pacquiao fight, except for a lost wallet in a crowd of watchers in Tondo (in Manila) at the public free viewing area due to excitement,” said Bataoil. Read here.

HBO also aired a series of episodes featuring the prep both Pacquiao and De La Hoya did leading up to the fight. It's funny to see Manny's giant entourage! "Eleven of them squeeze into a two-bedroom condo." Keeping it real, Pinoy-style! And talaga ba namang may Magic Mic pa?! Also, his dog is cute.

I found the little bit about his wife, Jinky, interesting. I sense a bit of tension there, at least as far as this episode goes. Did anyone else pick that up?

In defense of champorado

Do you like champorado?

 

I do. In fact, I've had more of it for breakfast or merienda in the last two months than I have in the last two years. In September, I had the opportunity to shop at a real Filipino supermarket in San Diego. You know the kind, selling everything from Eskinol to walis tambo. Where I live, we have two Filipino stores, but their selection is always lacking. Anyway, I got a couple of boxes of White King Champ-O-Rado mix, and I'm steadily eating my way through them. 

My husband, who is generally open to all sorts of unfamiliar dishes, has seen me consume this chocolate porridge with gusto. And for the life of him, he cannot figure out the appeal. Especially when I break out the spicy tuyo, dab it dry with some paper towels and flake it over a steaming bowl of what must look like dark brown paste to him. 

Why do I like champarado? Like many other Filipinos, I grew up eating the stuff. My Tita Chit used to make them for us at Inay's house, served with a splash of evaporated milk, or better yet, coconut milk. It was good for serving to guests too, as I have memories of old ladies slurping it up during padasal at my lola's house. 

In college, I would sometimes go to the Tapa King that used to be (I heard it's not there anymore) located at the end of Esteban Abada, a quick walk from where I lived. They had champorado on their menu, complete with a side serving of tuyo, if I remember correctly. On a rainy day like today is when I enjoyed it most. I still have a mental image in my head of walking into that Tapa King in soaking wet shoes (Abada flooded easily), all for a dose of warm, chocolate-y comfort. 

So perhaps my attachment to champorado is an emotional one.  Like all Filipino food, it connects me to my past and brings me back to some good ol' times. But don't knock the flavor till you've tried it (maybe without the salty fried fish, at first). After all, who doesn't like chocolate? 

And yes, I had champorado again today. With Nido.

Photo: Asiamex.com